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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.